# Syno Conversion Question (help please)



## HKfanboy (Mar 10, 2011)

I bought a Syno kit and followed all directions (the kits and basskillers) and well I have cloudy test prop. (7.8g final yeld on 5 carts) The solution is completely clear when I heat it but after cooling it becomes the clouded solution. I have allready filtered through a .45 whatman and transfered to my sterile vial. The solution does not look like any crystals have come out (crashed) but there is a settling of something going on in the bottom of my solution. (not particles just an more milky looking layer) 
Could this be because of mabye a little moisture left in the crystals when adding them to the 100ml of oil with 3% BA/BB pre mixed in. Is it safe to use (I know its sterile) and how can I avoid this in for next time.


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## HKfanboy (Mar 11, 2011)

Nuthin....I cant be the only one without a source that homebrews....


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## cutright (Mar 11, 2011)

I just started brewing but I don't use the kits and mine has been right on. Hopefully brundel will come on here... He will know the answer for u


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## Xqshuner (Mar 14, 2011)

it sounds as if your powder wasn't completely dry. That is something that can't be stressed enough. Don't get in a hurry, let it dry!


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## HKfanboy (Mar 20, 2011)

Xqshuner said:


> it sounds as if your powder wasn't completely dry. That is something that can't be stressed enough. Don't get in a hurry, let it dry!


 Well that must have been it. I did a 2nd batch and this time the only divergence from the first batch was dry time. 1st batch I dried in the oven for 3hrs. (low low heat, pulling out every 15min to chop it up and break up clumps) 2nd batch I dried for days. (oven also used every night for 3hrs a night, over the course of 4 days) Now I have a beautiful clear solition.


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## brundel (Mar 20, 2011)

Powder needs to be completely dry for sure.

There is no need for an oven though and in fact you can wind up melting the powder.

I would use a bowl with one of these over it for heat. Usually a few hours under the lamp and then overnight drying will suffice.


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## HKfanboy (Mar 21, 2011)

brundel said:


> Powder needs to be completely dry for sure.
> 
> There is no need for an oven though and in fact you can wind up melting the powder.
> 
> I would use a bowl with one of these over it for heat. Usually a few hours under the lamp and then overnight drying will suffice.


 Great idea with the lamp. I was aware of the possibility of melting the crystals so I had my oven on warm with a thermometer to ensure a temp of around 170*F or less. Off to amazon to buy a lamp.


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## brundel (Mar 21, 2011)

Yah if you use a bowl thats glass or ceramic the lamp completes the sphere and the bowl will itself get pretty hot.


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## .V. (Sep 1, 2011)

Old thread back from the dead...

On the topic of syno.  Just curious as I've never done it.  I've talked about it with experienced cookers before and have the idea...basically it's 100% crystal tren method with the addition of NaOh.  

However, I've never gotten a straight answer.  How much NaOh to use?  Some say 125mg.  Some say about a gram.  Some say about a tablespoon in a cup of water should be about right. 

Is this something that everyone just guesses on?  Because it seems to me that if one uses too much, or leaves it in too long, that they end up with TNE.  One guy told me that yeah, you end up with a little base when you do it, but still mostly prop and the combination is what makes it so good.

So how much is the right amount?  Anybody know?

Thanks.


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## cottonmouth (Sep 2, 2011)

.V. said:


> Old thread back from the dead...
> 
> On the topic of syno.  Just curious as I've never done it.  I've talked about it with experienced cookers before and have the idea...basically it's 100% crystal tren method with the addition of NaOh.
> 
> ...




I was reading alot about it.. Its basically a supersaturated solution of NaOh. And if I'm remembering correctly only a couple of tablespoons of it. and your only supposed to leave it for an hour or so because it will strip the prop ester if used any longer.. also you don't get the test base in the final product as you was it out with the estrogen.. test base is water soluble, prop isn't. 

TESTOSTERONE NATION | Synovex and Estrogen - Page 2

^^This has a ton of info in it. It gets more refined as the log goes on too.


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## .V. (Sep 2, 2011)

thanks cottonmouth.


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## brundel (Sep 4, 2011)

The SYNO conversion:

Supplies Needed:

Start with 2 carts then once you have it down you can do more. Trust me on this I don’t do more than 4 after MANY conversions.

A couple of 600ml Bomex beakers/ or coffee pots and Pyrex measuring cups of equal volume will suffice. MUST HAVE A POUR SPOUT ON THE FRONT and the ability to determine how much fluid is in the container.

2 Bottles of HEET. Methanol, yellow and blue bottles.

Coffee filters, cup not cone, big ones.

Paper clips or clothespins, have many on hand just incase.

2 gallons distilled water. Keep in refrigerator at while not using so it’s always cool.

Cottage cheese or margarine container thoroughly cleaned with a safety pin hole in the bottom. This must allow the distilled water to drip not pour in. Test it before you use it. It must be able to hold 500ml distilled water.

A bowl and some paper towels.

Preferably you will also have a desk lamp that will radiate a lot of heat.


1. 2 carts syno pellets in a 600ml Bomex glass beaker. Use a paperclip to push the pellets out.

2. Crush the pellets into a powder. (Doesn’t have to be perfect, this is just to make it dissolve faster)

3. Add roughly 100ml -150ml methanol. (HEET) Yellow and blue bottle.

4. Cover top. Swirl around from time to time until all residual pellet fragments are dissolved. This will not be clear there will be powder in the heet. You know it’s done because the larger fragments are dissolved.

5. Fasten a coffee filter to another flask or coffee pot, ( what I use sometimes) Fasten with clothespins or paper clips. Make sure you use something with a pour spout like a coffee pot or beaker. Make sure you can easily unfasten the paperclips or whatever from the front pour spout area in order to drain the fluid.

6. Pour the dissolved solution through the coffee filter. This gets out the binders and fillers. There should be some white residue left in the filter. Filter times vary depending on filters. Use cup filters not cone.

7. While filtering wash the 600ml Bomex beaker or the like. Again make sure it has a pour spout. Pyrex measuring cups work as well. DRY the beaker totally.

8. Remove the coffee filter with the binders and throw it away

9. Pour the syno methanol solution into the clean, dry 600ml beaker.

10. Place the cottage cheese container on top, fill with roughly 350ml-400ml distilled water and put the whole contraption in the freezer. The water should be dripping slowly into the beaker. Make sure to keep an eye on it. Takes maybe 15 min.

11. Once the water reaches the 450ml or so mark remove it from the freezer and stop the drip. On the 2-3-4th batches you’ll have a lower level as you’ll use less methanol so your total volume after adding distilled water will be more like 350-400ml.

12. After cleaning the Beaker or whatever you used previously, fasten another coffee filter to the rim. Be sure it can take 500ml+ and make sure the filter is on tight. This is where your PROP is.

13. Slowly pour the solution into the filter. Big filters work better for me because they are easier to attach and to deal with in general. You don’t want to have to remove the filter with the prop crystals in it and have it spill all over you sink or carpet. Let it filter through you may need to kind of scrape the bottom of the beaker to get all the crystals out. You can use an additional 100ml or so distilled water to rinse the beaker out and add to the filtrate. DISTILLED WATER ONLY HERE.

14. Take the Filter after it has drained and there is a white mushy/chalky powder remaining. Get a bowl and put a few paper towels in the bottom to absorb fluid. Put the coffee filter in the bowl on top of the paper towels, additional fluid will begin to be absorbed into the paper towels. I like to set up a desk lamp with a bright light and put it over the bowl very close to the powder, NOT ON. LOL and Not in the bloody oven for *&%$ sake unless you want to ruin everything. You will need to let everything dry 100% this is very important. After a few min replace the paper towels on bottom, eventually remove them so everything can dry.You’ll need to use something to scrape the powder off the filter and chop it up a bit into a finer and finer powder until it’s dry. If you let it sit alone it can take days to dry. If you use a lamp or something you can do it in a few hours thus reducing the whole process time by several days.

Now repeat 3 more times. Everything the same except reduce the amount of methanol to only as much as is needed to dissolve the powder completely. This time around you should not see any powder like the first time as we already removed the fillers. So once dissolved the solution should be ALMOST clear but not like pure water. If you have pieces that won’t dissolve, you didn’t let the powder dry and you’re a Weenie. You’ll be fine just keep on with it as planned and be sure to dry it better next round.

15. After the 4th re-crystallization leave the filtrate in the filter still attached to the contraption you were using to drain your fluid into.Undo the front and pour the fluid out being careful not to spill your prop crystals.
Rinse the crystals with 1 gallon Distilled water. Do this by slowly pouring water into the filter where your prop crystals are. I use a spray bottle to keep everything moving and to keep things off the sides. RINSE ALOT. You will have to Pour the water out of the beaker many times before your done, this is why I said to make sure you can easily remove the fixture.
NOW DRY

After you have dried it for the fourth time make sure it’s dry this time, don’t be a weenie. It will screw everything up. Must be dry.

16. From here, weigh your powder to be sure what you’ve got. You’ll have from 2 carts between 2-3.5 grams probably depending on how anal you were. Remember we would rather have 2 grams of PROP than 3.5 grams of Prop and Estradiol.

When converting your crystals into an injectable, for the first few times you MAY want to heat the powder in oil only. NO BB or BA until after and using a different filter. Depending on how you’re going to filter, syringe filter or stericup vac system you will want to filter the warm oil and prop only. Then, using another filter add BA and BB. The reason for this is the estradiol is only very slightly soluble in oil and therefore will be trapped by the filter if you had any remaining. If you added the BA and BB it will make the estradiol soluble. If you have done 4 re-crystallizations you should have little or no Estradiol left anyways but at first I did this as a precaution. I no longer do this but if you’re concerned, this will 100% eradicate any residual Estradiol. If you use stericup vacuum setup you will need 1x 22um syringe filter for the BA/BB. Again this is not really necessary.

I have done it both ways and my recent batches I have been mixing BA/BB and oil with prop and filtering all at once. I’m currently running this at 150 EOD, 6 weeks in, No issues for me or my training partner who’s using 2x my amount. Once you’ve done the conversion a few times you will get better and better. Your yield will be higher and your confidence in the end product will be absolute.

I decided to add this as an afterthought. It would seem that there is a lot of confusion surrounding this conversion. Many people have been led to believe that you need an estrogen remover when in fact you do not. The process I have outlined will leave you with a very clean product with 0 estradiol if done as outlined. I have been running it for quite some time now at doses up to 150mg a day with no bra needed. I also know personally several people using the exact same process. No complications, No tits. So basically what I’m trying to say is, if you do this you will be 100% successful. No estro solubulizer needed.

BRUNDEL


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## cottonmouth (Sep 4, 2011)

brundel said:


> The SYNO conversion:
> 
> Supplies Needed:
> 
> ...




Have you yourself actually used this method? or is it just a copy and past? I have never done it but I've been researching just in case I'm not able to find any.  
I was under the impression you needed NaOh solution to "detach" the estroidal. with out , I thought it wasn't water soluble. so rinsing with water does nothing. But i have heard of the repeat recrystallization but it was always involved with the NaOh.  

I would like to completely understand it, so I don't mess it up myself if I ever try. 
Thanks


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## brundel (Sep 4, 2011)

I have done it myself dozens of times.
I wrote this myself years ago and it is copy and pasted from a post I made in 07 I think.
Your not using water to wash anything away.
You take advantage of the ratio of prop to estro. The prop will recrystallize first so with every recrystallization you will recrystallize mostly prop and some estro. Eventually there is no estro left to recrystallize.
It is not foolproof.
I have had many good batches and one that caused some freaky gyno. Nolva made it disappear in a couple weeks though and I have not seen any gyno signs in years even at 2100mg test a week with no ai.

Honestly....there are so many places to just get prop or suspension....this is a pain in the ass. its also expensive.
Just buy prop from a sponsor.


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## cottonmouth (Sep 4, 2011)

Alright i see what your talking about now. Thanks for that, 

And ya i have some prop already just waiting for my ba/bb.oil. 

Thanks man


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## gunnar31656 (Sep 19, 2011)

I can't fins synonymous anywhere. all sites say sold out till 2012. any places online with it still around?


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## brundel (Sep 19, 2011)

I have heard about people having a hard time purchasing syno as of late. I would just buy raw prop powder for a 10th of the price.


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## gunnar31656 (Sep 20, 2011)

id love that, but finding heat free powder is a pain in the ass!


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